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Christmas ‘End to End’
Our ride to Land’s End at Christmas
was long in the planning. To my surprise on Christmas morning I was
presented with bookings for accommodation north.
We
were going to John O’Groats as well. Only an hour into the ride on
Boxing Day, admiring the view on the Yorkshire-Derbyshire border, we saw
a bike chugging up the hill. It turned out to be a woman on her
Christmas present – a restored Triumph Tiger Cub and one of the few
other bikes we saw. Our first cultural stop was the Sandbach Crosses,
repaired ‘after being smashed by iconoclasts.’ An ex-landlord, who came
to look at our bikes, told us that the Messerschmitt Club had once asked
him if they could have a rally at his pub. He told them the car park
wouldn’t be big enough to land in.
The church at Moreton Corbet Castle
was full of dead Corbets and the grounds were full of dog excrement.
First night spent in Shrewsbury Battlefield Travelodge reading Ted
Simon’s Jupiter’s Travels. Most of the next day we spent on the A49,
taking in Stokesay Castle ‘the finest Medieval manor house in England.’
I managed to fall down the steps. Thankfully Cordura saved me from
injury.
We
met Simon as arranged at Hope under Dinmore and he rode with us as far
as the Severn Bridge, where we spent our second night, taking in the
beautiful Kilpeck Church, with its Hereford Romanesque masonry and
elusive Shelagh na gig. In the evening we took a Romantic walk over the
bridge in a howling gale before our Pot Noodles. Porlock Hill is
impressive - first gear all the way up on the outfits. By then it has
started raining and we were battered by the weather all along the
northern coast of Devon. We ate our lunch in the only shelter for miles
on the Devon-Somerset border. It fined up for the brilliant road from
Lynmouth through the Exmoor Forest. We stayed with relations in Braunton
and went for a curry. Early on Saturday heavy showers fell from a purple
sky and one of Oadesy’s heated grips packed in. It was a battle into the
wind along the Atlantic Highway.
After an official photograph at
Land’s End we dashed off to the Lizard Point, making Hayle Travelodge
before nightfall. Early start Sunday for the long ride over Dartmoor to
Glastonbury – the kind of roads we’d prefer to be on, but a treat on
such a long trip. After a visit to Wells we headed via Cheddar Gorge to
the bridge.
The
Severn was flat calm, in contrast to our last crossing. After checking
in at Ludlow we walked through Orieton village, then it got dark and the
last three miles on the A49 with no footpath were probably dangerous.
The A49 continues on up through Warrington and Wigan and the traffic was
light it being New Year’s Day. With plenty of time before check in at
Lancaster we took a visit to Blackpool, which was disappointing, though
I don’t know what we expected. We spent the Evening in the Cottam’s
Field – one of those nondescript pub/eateries with all the atmosphere of
an airport.
The A6 and then the A7 go all the
way to Edinburgh and some of it is pretty bleak, but it stayed fine and
at one point the sun nearly came out. Shap Abbey was worth a visit and
Galashiels has an interesting water feature and war memorial in the
middle of town. It was snowing when we woke on Thursday. There was a
covering on the back road via Powmill and Dunning and we passed two cars
in the ditch.
Things
got worse after Perth and we rode most of the way to Inverness in heavy
falling snow, wiping our visors every few seconds and with snow building
up on us. On the road over the Cairngorms and there are no roadside
facilities bar the Ralia Café at Newtonmore. Inverness Travelodge was
our base for two nights.
The road to John O’Groats follows
the coast with many climbs and twists – though work is ongoing to ruin
it. Spray from the sea made it to the road in places. It was rough at
the top. Going also to Dunnet Head meant a loop through Thurso and more
struggling into the wind. The ride after Brora was easier, but we had to
do an hour in the dark with filthy visors and a useless headlight.
The
penultimate day started promising but in the mountains the rain turned
torrential. My waterproofs gave up completely around the seat and I was
soaked. We were thankful for Morrison’s in Perth. The ride through
Dunning, Muckart, Powmill and Rumbling Bridge was one of the best bits
of the trip.
For the whole of the last day’s ride
home from Edinburgh down the marvellous A68 we were blessed with
glorious low winter sunshine – right in our faces, but you don’t like to
complain.
The
knack on my outfit was to go down the hills of the old Roman road as
fast as I could in order to get over the next peak without changing
down. All the surrounding scenery was bathed in brilliant sunshine. And
then, after 1,937 miles in twelve days it was all over.
Dave Ramsden.
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